Last night, my good friend gave me a copy of "Mastering the Art of French Cooking". I received it last year at a Book Club book exchange, and she stole it. I barely even remembered that she took it more than once or twice a month. I sat on my porch and read the introductions and forwards. There were about eight of them, two from Julia Child herself.
Cook books are something special to me. They combing my two great loves, cooking, and reading, more specifically, books. I had a childhood, lacking in all forms of tangible manifestations of love. Perhaps due to some genetic memory in my French and Italian lineage, I have long equated delicious food with feeling loved. It is by no accident that my best child hood memories took place in the kitchen or at the dining room table of the most amazing cook I know to this very day, My Aunt Liz. She is a loud, exotically beautiful Brooklyn born Italian. She oozed love like essential oil, but not a flowery oil, a garlic and pepper infused oil. It was a love that was not about making you feel good about yourself by telling you how wonderful you were, it made you feel good about yourself because it took care of your needs. It was a love that could tell, just by looking at you, that you need a sandwich and a glass of milk. Her house always had the lingering smell of the red sauce she made weekly, and a cookie drawer. A drawer, designated for nothing but cookies! Oh, and she always had Pop-Tarts. That was as good as it got when I was little.
This was very different the house I grew up in, on the same street as Aunt Liz. Family dinner in my other aunt's house was an infrequent affair, tense and not very tasty. The aunt who raised me just wasn't a very good cook. I don't know if she wasn't able to taste well, or if she was missing that certain generosity of spirit and patience that I think is necessary to be a good cook. Our house always smelled like cigarette smoke. Aunt Torm pretty much gave up cooking around the time I was ten. I began making dinners for myself out of Top Ramen, hot dogs, and fried eggs. Not all at the same time of course. I would roast the hot dogs over the gas flame on our stove, and I drained the broth off the noodles in the Top Ramen and add canned Parmesan cheese. none of these are particularly original ideas, but at ten years old, it was the best I could do. The point is, I was tweaking, and working, and trying to make mediocre food taste good.
When I moved in with my dad at sixteen, my step-mother had several cookbooks. She was a busy pastor's wife, and it often fell to me to cook dinner for the family, and what ever members of the congregation we had for dinner that night. I never felt this was a burden. I loved it. One of the recipes I discovered in one of Ruth's little church based cookbooks is a recipe I use to this very day. (Heavenly Chicken)
Somehow, over the years, I have amassed a collection of about 60 cookbooks. I have at least skimmed through all of them. Many of them I have read cover to cover, like a novel. Ann Hodgman is my favorite, both for entertainment value, and recipes. Many of my cookbooks are old, from the 70's or earlier. The old ones give me a sense of history. I think about older dinner parties, where there was no goat cheese or sun-dried tomatoes. I am also grateful, that we are no longer expected to eat things covered in Jello and call it fancy.
Mostly my cookbooks are like "how to love" manuals. Food, to make my family feel love, feel actual physical love, in their bellies. Waking up the smell of bacon, popovers whipped up when we have unexpected guests. Their favorite meal, whatever it may be, for birthdays, or first jobs, or other special days. My kids joke with me,
"You can't solve every problem by making a sandwich Ma," they say. Well, I disagree. There are very few problems that cannot be made better by a lovingly prepared meal.